Episode 68

A Beer for Dad, Cards for Grandma

For my first Día de Muertos in Mexico City, Este helps me make an ofrenda. I put out a beer for my dad and a deck of cards for my grandmother. There’s also a parade, a giant skeleton and lots of tourists wearing terrifying makeup. Also, I drank the beer. Sorry, Dad.

The following weekend, I sat sweating in a temazcal in Tepoztlán screaming "forgive me".

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Transcript
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Very fucking nice

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What episode am I even on?

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68. Holy shit.

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All right

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This is episode 68 of onefjef

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Mis amigos.

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Hola de nuevo.

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¿Cómo estás?

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¿Bien?

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Bien.

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It's Jef Taylor here with onefjef the podcast.

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Who else would it be, right?

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Who were you expecting?

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I'm on my terrace

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And it is Thursday evening.

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No, it's Wednesday evening.

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And I don't know why, but I've put off this episode a long

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time, like, uh, uh, recording it.

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I don't, I don't know why.

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Maybe it's because I feel like I have a lot to say, and I just haven't

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really felt like going into all of it.

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But now it's Wednesday night and I gotta get this thing out,

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because consistency is the key.

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Isn't that right, my friends?

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Anyway, apologize or not for the ambient noise that you're

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gonna hear in the background.

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Also, I think that I'm just gonna let this one go out unedited.

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I mean, maybe an edit or two if I say something really untoward or went

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weird or whatever, but let's try.

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Let's try and just release it unedited, raw, if you will, onefjef raw

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First off

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If anyone out there has received an email from someone saying that they are me,

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Jef Taylor, emailing from my podcast for my podcast on behalf of my podcast, One

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F Jef, saying that they'd like you to be on the podcast, it's not, it's not me.

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It's somebody who is impersonating me

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It's not my email address either.

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How do I know this?

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I've gotten two-- Two people have reached out to me in the last

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week or two asking me if I had reached out to them, confirming

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Just to confirm that it was actually me, and of course, I was

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trying to say that it wasn't me

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both authors.

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And while I'd love to have them on the podcast, they seem like nice people,

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it's not a podcast about authors.

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I'm sorry if you're listening.

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This is the raw part.

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I gotta drink some water

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But I'm flattered, you know, that the podcast is doing well enough

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to be, um, to be-- What's the word?

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There's an internet lingo word about-- Spoofed, I guess is the word, right?

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Spoofed.

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I don't know what the goal is, though.

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Like, that's what I've been thinking about a lot.

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Like, what's the end goal to convince somebody?

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Maybe they start asking for money.

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But believe you me, I'm not asking anyone for money to come on my podcast.

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So if anybody does reach out to you, I apologize.

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Please let me know, though, because, um, you know, it's good to know that

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you're being imitated, I suppose.

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Anyway, so that's happening, and that's pretty exciting in terms of the podcast.

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Also exciting news, um, particularly for Patreon subscribers at this

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point, is that I have started using, uh, artificial intelligence.

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Perhaps you've heard of it.

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It's this new thing.

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Everybody's talking about it.

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And, um, I'm using it to make-- I, I've been using it recently to make

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promos, like promotional things for my podcast for the social media,

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and, uh, it's been very good.

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It's been very effective.

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I don't know if it's actually converting people into listeners, so if you're

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here because of the promotion, please let me know, onefjefpod@gmail.com.

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But people are watching these promos, so that's nice and, you

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know, engaging a little bit.

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And so I thought at one point I was like, "Why can't I just

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animate an entire episode?"

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Because the problem with audio-only episodes, if there is one, in

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a video-front world, is that people want to see something.

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They don't like just to listen.

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We need to be stimulated into all of our holes at the same time.

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Not, that's not the best wording, but you, you, you know what I'm saying.

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Many of our holes, not all of them necessarily, although maybe

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some people, you know, who knows?

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If you're into that, you know, more power to you.

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I celebrate you.

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Um, but yeah.

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You need to have something to look at.

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So

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I just plugged an entire episode into AI.

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I just fed it into the old Claude and said, you know, "Animate this however

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you think is good." And it was good.

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I mean, it's not great, but it's good.

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There's genuinely funny parts in it, so on and so forth.

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It's a weird-- Look, it's weird.

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Anyway, I put that on, um, the Patreon, the first episode I

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animated on the Patreon page for my Patreon subscribers to enjoy.

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Which leads me right into if you yourself would like to enjoy a

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fully animated episode of onefjef, please do go to my Patreon page,

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patreon.com/onefjef, and sign up.

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Also, I wanna add to this Patreon pitch, which is very short, this episode, I

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promise, is that if you just wanna sign up for free, that would be great because if

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you sign up for free, the benefit is you get notified of every brand-new episode

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of onefjef, and isn't that wonderful?

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Like, in your inbox, in your very own inbox.

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So

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If that sounds exciting to you or useful, which it should if you're

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listening to this, then please do go to patreon.com/onefjef and

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sign up for a free membership.

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And if you have a little extra cash, say $5 a month, sign up and support

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the podcast with a little bit of money

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you'll get access to the animated episodes and more.

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I have one more animated episode I'm going to release as well.

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Maybe I'll animate this one.

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Maybe it's already animated and you're watching the animation right now.

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Wouldn't that be weird?

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That'd be like some weird vortex.

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It's like throwing a garbage can away.

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I think I had this conundrum when I was moving here.

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I had some garbage cans and I didn't want to throw the garbage cans away

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because I imagined if you throw garbage cans into the garbage, then some

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sort of a portal opens up into the netherworld and up is down, left is

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right, inside is outside, and there's nowhere to throw garbage away ever again.

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Anyway, patreon.com slash onefjef.

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Thank you.

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On with the show.

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Dia de Muertos.

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For a long time, I thought it was Dia de los Muertos.

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Apparently that's not correct.

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It's Dia de Muertos.

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So learning things, always learning.

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Dia de Muertos was two weekends ago.

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Lots has happened since then, but I said that I would talk

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about it on this episode.

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So here we are.

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Here I am talking about it.

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It was wild.

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It was both the same and different than I imagined it would be.

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What did we do?

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The first, I think we went to a parade.

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I forget what night that was.

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There was a big parade.

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Well, at first the city fills up with these, what are they?

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They're orange flowers.

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It's on the tip of my, magnolias, Mexican magnolias, I think it is.

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Is that right?

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No.

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Carnations?

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No, that's a pink one.

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I don't remember the name of the flower.

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I think it's magnolias.

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It'll come to me at the wrong time.

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Anyway, this is the official flower of Dia de Muertos and they're everywhere.

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It's very beautiful.

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Like these yellow, orange flowers everywhere.

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Very pretty.

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First off, I suppose I should just do a quick recap of what Dia de Muertos is

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about, what the gist of this holiday is.

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It's a far bigger holiday than I imagined it was going to be.

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I didn't realize what a big deal this is in Mexico.

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It's a big deal.

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People get two days off of work.

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Two days off, that's a big holiday.

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I think it's probably second only to Christmas, but maybe it beats Christmas.

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Although you can't, you don't beat Christmas.

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I don't care who you are.

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So no.

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But it's really a beautiful idea for a holiday, and it's basically you are

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remembering the people that have passed, the people that were in your life and are

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no longer in your life because they are, have moved on to wherever we go, you know.

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So you make, people, you know, make these ofrendas they're called, which is

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just like a little, how do you call it?

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Like a little s- I don't know, setting stage little thing in your

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house that you get things that they liked to eat or do or whatever.

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You give them some food, you get them a glass of water because the

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idea is that you light these candles.

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You leave this all night, these candles all night, and then these loved ones

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come back, uh, I guess at night while you're asleep because, you know, I

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don't think you interact with them.

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But they come back and, you know, they need the water because they've gone

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through a long journey through the, you know, from dead to alive or I don't know.

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So there's clearly I shouldn't be even talking about Dia de Muertos

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because I clearly don't really have a good understanding of it.

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But let's, let's like zoom back out a little bit.

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It's just about remembering people who are dead.

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That's all.

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That's all.

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And, and that it's a really beautiful thing because a lot of cultures, I mean,

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I would say most don't spend a lot of time thinking about the people who are gone

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But here in Mexico, they spend, you know, three, four, five days

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thinking about them and celebrating them and talking about them.

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So as such, Estee, bless her heart, wanted to help me make an ofrenda of my own.

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And so I did.

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We went to the market and bought some of the flowers.

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I still can't think of the name.

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Anyway, the yellow flowers, the orange flowers.

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And bought these, I forget, the papel something.

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It's like this thin cut paper.

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You've seen this in Mexico, these paper cut out.

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Like it's origami-ish, but it's really thin tissue paper.

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They do all sorts of them.

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Mine are like skulls.

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A lot of death imagery around Dia de los Muertos, which is hard to

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It was difficult for me all weekend to understand it because it really is a weird

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contrast because it's a celebration, but it's also like death, death, death, right?

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But it's like, yay, death, right?

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Anyway, so those paper things.

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Again, apologize for the ambient noise here.

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There you go.

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Really getting the vibe here of Mexico City.

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Noisy, noisy city.

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Jesus, so noisy.

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Speaking of noisy, um, I don't know if I mentioned all the apartment issues,

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like with the noise that I've had.

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I do love this apartment, but boy, there's been some noise issues, some

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construction issues and so forth.

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And now just starting this week, um, they are redoing the entire,

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uh, stairwell and hallways.

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So I-- it was a Monday morning, I think.

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I got up in like 9:00 in the morning, suddenly heard this insane banging,

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like they were banging right on my wall.

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And I hadn't been notified about this at all.

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And, uh, yeah, turns out they are doing that all week.

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So it's been noisy, but you know, noise-canceling

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headphones are very effective.

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Not as effective as you'd like them to be, but more effective than nothing.

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Am I right?

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I am right.

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Anyway, we're at the market.

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We get the papel, the thin papel with the cutouts in it.

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Mid different colors, of course.

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We got the flowers.

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What else do we get?

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Oh, you get these, uh, these skulls that are, like, decorated.

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They're about… You know, there's different sizes.

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The ones I got were about the s- half the size of my hand, I guess.

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And they're these skulls made out of sugar, so they're, like, solid, and

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they've got some decoration on them.

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So you get those.

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Apparently, that's part of the thing.

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Some of them are made of chocolate, apparently.

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Sorry, I need more water

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So I got two of the skulls 'cause I was doing, you know, one ofrenda for my father

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and one ofrenda for my grandmother, right?

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So I got two of the skulls, and, uh, I think that was it.

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And then we went to this Japanese restaurant that actually we were going

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to go to on our first date, but we didn't

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Because they didn't serve alcohol.

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I think that was why.

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We're not alcoholics, but you know what I mean, it's our first date.

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Blah.

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Anyway, we went to this place and, uh, boy, we were hungry

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and they really made us wait.

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We waited, um, and I'm not a patient person, as I've mentioned many times.

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And Mexico City, yeah, generally in Mexico it's slower than things

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are, but really not crazy slow.

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Like it's, you know

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But sometimes it's very slow.

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In this Japanese restaurant, it was very slow.

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We thought they'd forgotten about us, but they had not.

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But it's very frustrating when you're hungry, very hungry, and you're very

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excited about the food, and you're watching the food come out of the kitchen,

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and it's going to everybody but you.

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And you're like, you know, me and Este are like, "Did they-- That person

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got here after us. Did they order after us?" Like, you're indignant,

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or you get indignant about it.

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But then the food came, and mine wasn't as good as I was hoping,

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which was a disappointment, but the first few bites were good.

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Este really liked hers.

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Anyway, so then we made these ofrendas.

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Uh, I got a can of beer for my father.

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He enjoyed beer.

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I got a deck of playing cards for my grandmother, who very much enjoyed

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playing cards, and put them out there.

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Um, and the water and everything, and got pictures of them printed out at Kinko's.

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Not Kinko's, it's, uh, OfficeMax.

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Getting specific, very specific here, onefjef the podcast.

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Um, and yeah, it was lovely.

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It made me happy, I'll be honest.

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And, and I wanna do it again every year now because I think it's a

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beautiful thing to sit and think about the people that you've lost, so.

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So thanks, Este, for getting me to… not getting me to,

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or helping me make an ofrenda.

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Although I wouldn't have made one had it not been for you, so there you go

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Another thing I wouldn't have done if it wasn't for Este, and I'm going on

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a tangent here and I apologize, but last weekend we went to, uh, Tepoztlán,

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which is a town, um, I think it's south of Mexico City, but just south, like

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right on the border of Mexico City.

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And, uh, it's in another state, M-Morelos or something.

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I, I don't remember.

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But it was an hour and a half bus ride.

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Very pretty little town.

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Charming little, little town.

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We just went there for the weekend.

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A lot of people have vacation homes there, apparently.

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Um, very quaint.

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Very noisy though as well, which perhaps I'll talk about that later.

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But the thing that Este got me to do, we did this thing called a temesc- temescal,

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which is essentially a Mexican sweat lodge scenario, like a, um, a sweat

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tent I think is the equivalent in the United States with Native Americans.

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There's like Native American sweat tents.

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This was a sweat lodge, I guess, but lodge isn't the right word

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you know, I knew about these and I wasn't not interested in trying it,

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but I was also, you know, a little-- I would not have done it on my own.

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But Este wanted to do it.

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She did it when she was younger, so she wanted to do it.

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So we go to this place, just the two of us, right?

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We got our own whatever, igloo or hut, whatever you call it.

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And there's this, you know, this guy and you, you, you wear a bathing suit,

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although I didn't bring a bathing suit, so I was just wearing like gym

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shorts and underwear underneath, which wasn't great later, but live and learn.

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Again, sorry about the ambient noise.

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I think I'll call this episode Ambient Noise Very on the nose.

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Anyway, when we get there, he's like, you can-- They-they-- It's

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like in somebody's backyard kind of, but they have this… Jesus Christ.

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Here, they're gonna go by here.

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Go get 'em.

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Go get 'em.

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To this backyard of some sort.

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I don't know what.

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It was maybe a bed, bed and breakfast that had this in the backyard.

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I don't know.

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But it was in some backyard, and, uh, it was quite nice.

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And he's heating it up while-- when we get there.

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It's this loud noise.

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A lot of these use heated stones to heat the things up, these, these, these

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tent-- these, um, hu-huts up, I guess.

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But this guy had some sort of a, a device that heated it up,

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which plays a factor later.

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So, you know, we get into our bathing suits, or I get into my

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underwear, and she had a bathing suit.

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And, um, I go in first.

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We do some chanting outside, you know, it's a spiritual thing.

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We do some chanting outside, and he blows this, uh… I mean,

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this was kind of weird, though.

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He, he blows like a, like a seashell thing each direction.

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And I'm into spirituality, but it was a little strange to be in this, like

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a, like a bed and breakfast backyard with a guy blowing a horn right

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next to your face out of a shell.

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But I try to lean into these things, right?

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You gotta just… So then I don't speak… This is an important factor.

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I don't-- I speak Spanish okay.

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Like I, I'm getting better, right?

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But, like, I'm not that good, and this was all in Spanish.

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So a lot of it, I just didn't know what was going on.

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So then after we do the, the horn, uh, Este is like, "Okay." He says something.

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The, the, the shaman guy says something to me, and she's like, Este is like,

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"Okay, he-- you have to crawl into the, into the pla-- into the hut."

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So I'm like, "Okay." So I get on my hands and knees, and I crawl into

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the hut through this little doorway.

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It's very dark in there, and you can feel the heat just coming out of the doorway.

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Like, you can… It's intense.

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And then I get in there, and there's like a, there's like a center area

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with a, like a pool of water, and then there's a, on the outside,

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there was like a, like a bench.

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But then there was also a fl- a floor.

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Obviously, there's a floor.

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You're standing on it.

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So I go in, and I didn't know what to do, but apparently, I was

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supposed to go around the thing, like in a ceremonial way, and then

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s- then sit down on the floor.

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But I kinda just kept going, and he's just like, you know, "Keep go- go, go…"

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He's not saying it, and he, "Va," you know, whatever.

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And so eventually, I figure out I'm supposed to keep going around, and

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then I just sit on the bench 'cause I didn't know not to sit on the bench.

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And wow, um, it was very, very hot.

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Um, I have never felt like that level of heat, uh, in my life, in my life.

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And I was sitting on the bench, which was really the problem as it

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turns out, 'cause, you know, heat rises, so the higher you are in these

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huts, the, the much hotter it is.

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It, it was hot.

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It was hot.

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And I was in there for about five or 10 minutes, and I th- I'm thinking

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to myself, "Can I sit in here for an hour?" It was an hour long, the,

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the thing that we'd signed up for.

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And I'm thinking, "Can I sit here for an hour?" And after about

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10 seconds, I'm like, "I gotta get out of here." I just left.

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And I'm like, "I can't. I don't think I can do that. I'm out of

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it." I'm like, I, I, you know.

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And so we sat down, and the shaman guy was very nice about it, and he's

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like, well, maybe if I left… He was like, "You should s-" Number

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one, he was-- This is all translated.

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"First, you should sit on the floor 'cause it's much cooler down there, so it'd be a

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lot easier for you if you're on the floor.

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Also, we can leave the, the, the door, the flap door open a little bit

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just so some air gets in." And I'm thinking, "Okay, I can do this," right?

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Like, I'm here.

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We spent the money.

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Let's do it.

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So I go back in, and I sit on the floor, and it's okay.

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It's hot.

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Don't get me wrong.

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It's hot.

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I've been in saunas.

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It-- This, this is hot.

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And we-- And I sit on the floor, and then Este comes in and does the, you

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know, crawling around on the floor thing that I was supposed to do.

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And, um, and then the shaman comes in and closes the vent thing most of the

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way, not all the way, whatever, halfway.

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And then we're in there, and it's hot.

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You know, you're really, um

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Y- y- you really become pretty…

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I- like I understand part of it I think is just it's like a meditative thing because

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you can't not think about how hot it is.

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Your mind really can't wander all that much because you're just-- I don't know

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if it's a survival thing or if it's just like it's hot and I've gotta really focus

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on not like you're taking deep breaths, at least I was, just to like keep…

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Yeah, it's hot.

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And, uh, and so then the, the, the shaman is like saying things, and then he's

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like, you know, "We have to s- we're doing chants." He's r- repeating after

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him, and I am just gue- guessing some of the words because I don't, again, spe-

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know Spanish, so I'm just kinda guessing.

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A lot of them I understood.

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And as we go on, um, w- you know, he's getting louder, and we're making,

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you know, the tribal, like I forget we were doing huh-huh or something.

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Um, a lot of interesting things.

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And it doesn't seem weird at all because it's already weird you're

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in a hut in Taposlan, Mexico, in probably 200 degrees at least.

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I mean, it's hot.

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It's real hot, and you're just wearing a bathing suit, and you're pouring sweat.

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You're pouring sweat

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Yeah.

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And I've done a lot of hot yoga, but this, my friends,

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this was, this was no hot yoga.

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Anyway, so after about 20 minutes or so, like, I don't

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know how much time has gone by.

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You lose track of time.

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And then he starts he- like, threw water at us, like, it, uh,

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cold water, and it cools us down significantly and it's like, "Oh, wow."

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And I thought, "Oh, it's over." Right?

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Uh, I mean, it was great, but it was over.

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I wasn't sad or happy.

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But then I come to learn after about five minutes, like, he starts dumping

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buckets of water on our head, which is very refreshing for a while, and then it

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started to get cold because, you know, the-- it's cold, cold water, cold water.

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So then I come to understand, 'cause I don't speak Spanish, again,

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so there's a lot of being, being said that I am not understanding.

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Este's translating some of it, but there's only so much you can do.

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And part of me is like, "Oh, it's kinda fun to be in the dark." Although… Now

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that I think about it, when I was in Japan years ago, uh, we went to this meditation

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thing, this meditation training thing.

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It's up in the mountains outside of, like, Gifu.

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And I had no idea what I was getting into.

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Um, and I didn't, of course, speak Japanese really at all.

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You know, arigato gozaimasu, but that's all I got.

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So we go to this, um, and it's, it turns out it's this zazen meditation,

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which is where they, like, the, the, the meditation instructor, like, beats

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you with a stick, like this paddle.

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And we didn't know why.

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We didn't know anything about it at all.

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Like, I learned it was zazen afterwards 'cause I looked it up.

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And so we just go in there thinking it's just a regular kind of meditation

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thing, and I had never meditated before really, so I'm just like, "Oh, this

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is interesting." So we go in there, and we come to understand that we

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have to just kneel on these things, and there's other monks in there that

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are also meditating, so we're all in this big room, these wooden floors.

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And,

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and the first meditation session begins, and it's like a bell or something.

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And we all have our-- I, you know, I have my eyes closed.

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You know, I'm meditating as far as I know.

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I don't know really what meditation is at the time, but I'm, you know,

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doing what I, doing what I understand.

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Keeping my eyes closed is the main thing.

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And you slowly start hearing this guy, like, I assume the leader,

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walking around, like, between the people, like, down the rows, 'cause

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there's about 20, 30 people in there.

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There's about four of us who were, like, just the white people visiting,

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and then all the rest were monks.

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And he's walking around, and you can hear 'cause the s- the s- the floorboards

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are just very squeaky, so it's aah, aah.

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And it's silent beyond that.

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And then out of nowhere, you just hear this loud thwack And it's

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like he, it's, he hit somebody.

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He, he hit somebody and we had no idea who it was.

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Like, how the fuck do I know?

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Uh, it might be raining now.

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Anyway, he hit somebody.

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He hit somebody.

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And it was terrifying.

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We had no idea why people were being beaten.

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Um, I just was trying to meditate as best I could 'cause I assumed that it

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was because people weren't meditating right that people were getting beaten.

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So I meditated as good I could, and then there was a break, and then

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there's another session where people like, you just hear the whack, whack,

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and I have no idea who's getting hit.

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Come to find out at the end that they were-- you had to

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be re- you had to request.

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If you wanted to be beaten, you had to say, "You can go ahead and beat me."

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But they weren't just beating everybody.

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They were only beating people who had asked for it

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Anyway, there's another round of the heat hut, the temazcal.

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And so we do another 15, 20 minutes, very dark, but it's getting more intense.

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It's getting hotter in there.

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The temperature is going up.

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I start to sit on the bench for a bit because it really, once you get

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used to it, you want it to be hot.

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It's very strange.

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Uh-oh, what did I drop?

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Don't worry, it was my phone.

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Yeah, the second round was even more intense because then the chanting,

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it turns into just shouting.

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And at a certain point, I don't know if it was the second or third round,

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you know, it's 200 degrees in there.

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You're pouring sweat.

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You're almost like you're, you get into this weird, slippery, weird, hazy.

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It's, it's, it's like drugs a little bit.

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Not all drugs, but some drugs, if that makes sense.

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Um

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Uh, but eventually, you know, I know the s- little Spanish that

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I know, we're, like, shouting, like, "I forgive you, Mother.

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I forgive you, Father.

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I forgive you, my friends.

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I forgive you, my m- sister.

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I forgive you, my c-…" Like, it's all this, like,

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screaming, like, "I forgive you."

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And then it's like, "Forgive me." It's this very cleansing.

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I don't know.

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It-- 'Cause you're in this very, like, almost black, like, hut,

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you know, 200 degrees or whatever, and you're just screaming into

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the dark with this Mexican shaman.

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So I don't know.

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It was a unique experience.

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It was a unique experience, and I'm glad I did it.

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I would not say… As-- After we got out, there were three rounds

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of the whole thing, and the last one was, like, ridiculously hot.

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He's just-- He'd got this, um… It's water, so he just dumps the water onto

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this heating element and just creates all the steam, and then it, like,

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burns your throat when you inhale.

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Like, it's that hot.

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It's wild.

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Um, a little lightheaded, I would say.

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That's a question you're probably asking yourself: "Did you get

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lightheaded?" Yeah, a little bit.

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Um,

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yeah, so after we're done, like, it's very refreshing and everything, and you get to,

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you know, cold shower afterwards and… And Este was like, "I wanna do it again."

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And I'm thinking, "Yeah, I'm, I'm gonna, I'm gonna take a break before I, before

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I hop back on that old horse again." I don't think I need to do a temazcal

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every week or even every month, really.

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I think it's probably a year, every y- year or two, I'd say.

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But Este, go to it.

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I'll cheer you on.

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Although I, I'd be worried about you if you were doing that every week.

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I'll be honest with you.

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I mean, people say it's just a sauna.

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No, no, no, no, no.

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No.

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Okay, I've been in a sauna.

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This is… This ain't, this ain't your mama's sauna or something like that.

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No.

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Your-- This ain't your grandpa's sauna.

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I don't know if that works, and if it doesn't, it's okay, but I'm not

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editing it, so you be the judge.

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Did it work?

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Shoot me an email, onefjefpod@gmail.com.

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Anyway, Dia de Muertos We build the, uh, ofrendas.

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And, uh, then there was the big parade.

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It's a big parade that goes down Reforma, which is like the main

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street, to Centro, which is the, you know, the old-timey downtown area.

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And, uh, you know, I thought that this parade was, you know, an old thing

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that had been going on for years.

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But apparently it's only been going on for like 11 years, and the only reason

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that it exists is because there was a James Bond movie filmed here 11 years

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ago, I guess, and there was a big parade as part of the filming of the thing.

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And people liked it, so they just decided to have the parade every year.

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So it makes it a little less, um, authentic, I think is the

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word that would come to mind.

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But not that the whole thing, I mean, the entire, uh, Dia de Muertos, the

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whole thing is obviously authentic.

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But, like, the parade thing, it just seems a little strange.

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Um, anyway, we went to the parade.

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It was incredibly crowded, and really we expected it to be.

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But it wasn't… It wa- You know, we saw a little bit of it.

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I'm not a big parade person, as you could probably guess.

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So, you know, I wanted to see some stuff.

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But m- more interesting was, like, the amount of people.

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'Cause everybody, not everybody, like, I'd say a quarter of the

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people get their face painted.

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You know, you've seen it in the pictures and the videos of the Dia de Muertos.

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You know what I'm talking about.

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In the movie, the Pixar movie.

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You know what I'm talking about.

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I haven't seen the Pixar movie, so I don't know what I'm talking about.

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Anyway, a lot of people get their faces painted because there's all

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these face painters everywhere.

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Very professional.

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Like, it's amazing the art they do on these, on people's faces.

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And also terrifying.

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Like, it's, again, a very strange vibe because there's also people

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wearing costumes for, like, Halloween.

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And then there's people who have this terrifying face paint on, but

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it's not supposed to be terrifying.

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But it is terrifying.

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And then the parade is full of skeletons.

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Like, you know, giant skeletons.

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So, I mean, it's a strange… You know, if I was Mexican and I'd grown

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up with this, it'd be a different game.

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But I am not a Mexican, and I… You know, it's a unique experience.

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It's a unique experience.

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I will say that the number of tourists that were in town for it

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made it a little less, um… It, it, it, it, it harshed my vibe.

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Is that the phra- the phrase?

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Yep.

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Um, because there were so many tourists in town.

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I don't think I've ever seen that many tourists in Mexico City.

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Like, it was a lot.

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A lot of white people.

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I'm a white person.

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I am.

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But a lot of white tourists.

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And it makes it also feel less authentic, right?

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'Cause it becomes a tourist thing.

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I could dig into this real deep, but I'm not gonna.

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I'm gonna spare you.

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So the parade, meh, fine.

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You walk down to, uh, the park there, the, um, Chapultepec,

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the Bosque de Chapultepec, Chapultepec Forest, as they say.

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And, uh, there's some cool, like, light-ups.

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Like, again, no skulls or whatever, but, like, this lit-up entrance.

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It was cool.

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It was neat.

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It was neat.

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Um, and then, oh, I forgot to talk about the Meow Festival we stumbled into.

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So when we got the… We went to the market to get the stuff for the ofrendas.

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Uh, it was in my- Old neighborhood in Roma Sur.

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So we s- just wandered around.

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I showed Este where I used to live, and we went to, um, uh, Huerta Roma Verde,

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which I'm pretty sure I've talked about.

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It was this, it's this cool, like, eco park near my, um, old apartment.

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There's, like, fairs there every weekend, and boy, did we luck out this time.

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The carnival, or the-- It was not a carnival.

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It's a fair.

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What's the difference between a carnival and a fair?

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I think a fair often doesn't have rides.

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Carnival usually does.

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That's all I'm saying.

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Anyway, we wander into this 'cause, you know, who knows what it is.

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It's the Meow Festival, my friends.

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It's a festival de- dedicated simply to cats and more cats and even more cats.

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And, uh, yeah.

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What a magical festival, fair, whatever.

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Festival, that's what it is.

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It's a festival, not a fair.

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Cat fair?

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What are we talking about?

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Cat festival.

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Meow Festival.

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As, as a matter of fact-- Actually, I don't think it was meow.

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I think it was the Spanish onomatopoeia for meow.

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Is that the right word?

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Onomatopoeia?

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Is that meow, bark, or is that the wrong…

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I don't know, onefjefpod@gmail.com.

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Anyway, the Meow Festival, we didn't stay long.

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Um, but-- And we barely saw-- We saw, like, one cat, one

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live cat the whole time.

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The rest of it was just cats on T-shirts, cats on coasters, cats on pajamas.

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Um, I believe there were some, uh, Frida Kahlo pajamas, of course, which

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doesn't make sense, but it's kind of the way of, the way of the world here.

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Frida Kahlo pajamas.

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What would she think?

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What would Frida Kahlo think if she came back and she saw what they had

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turned her likeness into here in Mexico?

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That they had turned her into a basic, like a commodity,

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like a touristic commodity.

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I don't know.

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Anyway, meow, meow, the Meow Festival.

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Um, didn't buy anything at the Meow Festival.

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So

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it's been a while now.

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So that-- Anyway, what did we do next?

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We went to-- One of the days we went to UNAM, which is, like,

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the biggest university in Mexico.

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It's where Este went to school.

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Massive, one of the biggest schools in the world, universities.

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And what they do is this thing called mega ofrenda.

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And all of the departments at the school, or most of them, Film and Television,

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I'm talking to you, make an ofrenda, uh, about their department, like a giant one,

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like one that's, like, you know, um, like, as big as a car, like a, like a, like

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in a car parking space, that big, right?

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Some of them are even bigger.

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Huge.

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And they make-- They put them in this parking lot of the school.

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And, uh, and yeah, and they, they, they're about, they're-- Like, it's about the

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department, but it's also about people who they've lost in that department.

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It's pretty cool.

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I mean, they, they're creative.

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It was neat.

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Wandered around there for a while.

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Um, mega ofrendas.

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And then I think the best part of The most memorable part anyway of the entire

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weekend was I think it was on the Monday we went down to Centro, which we'd

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avoided doing because of the crowds.

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Because it really, you know, there's 20 million people in the city.

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I mean, it gets crowded

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So we decided we wanted to go down Centro because there was the, uh,

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the, the biggest Catrina, which is the Catrinas is like the, the skeletons

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dressed like a woman kind of thing.

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There's a whole story behind it, but I'm not gonna, I'm not gonna go

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there 'cause I don't remember it all.

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Member it all.

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Remember it all.

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Anyway, the biggest Catrina ever was in Centro in Mexico City this year.

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It's been confirmed by the Guinness Book of World Records, and so we wanted

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to see this mega, um, c- mega Catrina.

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Mega Catrina.

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So we took the subway down there, and the m- I think we

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took a Metro Bus then a subway.

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Whatever.

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Doesn't matter.

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Not an important detail.

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We go there, and, uh, yeah, there's a lot of people.

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Lot of people.

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But it was great.

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Like, it wasn't so many that it was, um, horrible.

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You could walk.

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You know, you could breathe, and it was a great crowd.

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Like, everybody's… A lot of people are dressed up, and no, I was not dressed up,

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nor was Estee, but we have, we have now agreed we're gonna do it next year 'cause

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I kinda felt bad that I hadn't dressed up.

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I have a lucha libre mask that I got a month and a, a year and a half ago

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rather, but I, I did not wear it.

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I had all the intentions of wearing it, but I always forgot it, which

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is a shame 'cause I got the moves

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Anyway, um, a lot of people are in costumes.

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A- again, the makeup, um, really unique costumes, funny costumes,

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but a lot of just skeletons.

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There was this costume of this, like a massive costume of this, like, woman

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skeleton holding, like, a baby skeleton.

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Very strange stuff.

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Like, if the context is important, I, I, I agree.

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But it really is, um, it really is a confusing… Like, it's

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a weird, it's a weird holiday.

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Halloween's weird too, but Halloween isn't as focused on death

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and dying as Día de Muertos is.

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And I don't mean that in a bad or a good way.

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I'm not… It's not a value judgment.

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It's just the way it is.

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And as an American who's never experienced it, it's a unique,

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uh, it's a unique thing.

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'Cause you walk down to Centro, and then there's a big crowd of people, and I, I…

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Like this, this giant skeleton dressed as a w- like woman skeleton, I guess,

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with this, like a hat on and everything.

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You'd know it if you saw it.

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It's in that movie as well, I think, the, the Pixar movie.

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What's that called?

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It's one word.

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Yeah.

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Very authentic apparently to Mexican culture.

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I have to see that.

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Anyway, massive thing.

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Huge.

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I mean, I don't know, 10 stories.

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I, I, I… It's a big, it's a big thing.

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And it's strange that, you know, if you were coming, like stumbling into

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this culture from, I don't know, as a space alien or something, and you

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just came on this day and ended up in Mexico City, and you see all these

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people looking up at this giant, massive skeleton lit up, and I would be confused.

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I mean, there's a lot of things about just the world that I would

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be con- I mean, crosses everywhere.

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But yeah.

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Yeah.

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You need to explain it.

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I need to explain it.

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Or you just look it up on the internet or ask AI about it, which is what I did

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Anyway, it was really fun.

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Um, it was a fun weekend.

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I didn't leave the candles lit overnight because I was afraid

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that my apartment would burn down.

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Um, but I hope that-- And I drank the beer that I left out for my dad because

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he didn't come and get it, so I drank it.

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Sorry, Dad

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What else?

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What else?

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Let me look at my phone and see what else I've written down.

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Uh

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This is a big city.

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I realized this.

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I was taking a taxi down to meet Esti at UNAM to see the mega friendas.

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And it's about a 30-minute taxi ride, depending on the traffic.

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In this case, it was good.

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But like I have not been out and about outside of like it's embarrassing,

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but I don't spend a lot of time outside of like the main area where

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I'm at because I walk a lot, you know.

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But, you know, every time I do leave the main, like not the main, but, you

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know, Roma Norte, Condesa, et cetera, I'm all like, whoa, this is big.

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It's a big city.

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It just goes and goes and goes and goes and goes.

Speaker:

And it's just it's kind of incredible.

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Large, large city.

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Also, they use different playing cards here.

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Yeah, it's not related to the population, I don't think.

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But yeah, I guess Spain uses the same deck.

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There's a certain different kind of deck of playing cards that some

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Spanish-speaking countries use.

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Not as much as they used to, obviously, because like poker and everything

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has become more standardized with the deck that, you know, whatever

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the deck is that we 52, I don't know.

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And it's not that different.

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There's queens and kings or whatever, but they're called something else

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But it's not the same numbers and stuff.

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So little trivia for you there

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Just let you think about that for a little bit.

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Listen, I don't have to tell you folks to light, to like, rate,

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subscribe, and review this podcast

Speaker:

So that'll save some time

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So last weekend, yeah, we went to Tepoztlán and we

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sh- we got an Airbnb and, um

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Yeah, the first night, the Airbnb, you know, it was nice inside,

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but the first night… You know, I understand Mexico's loud.

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I do.

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I, believe me, I understand it

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But the Airbnb was right on like, it was not a main street,

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and there's no main street.

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So like dirt roads in this town and like honestly like it's all brick roads,

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but not bricks, it's just stone roads.

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I've never seen these kind of roads, like these polished stone roads,

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and it's very hard to walk on.

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Difficult to drive on too, I'd imagine.

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Anyway, the Airbnb

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I think we're the only ones in there.

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There was like six different Airbnbs.

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We're pretty sure we're the only people in there.

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It's not important to the story I'm about to tell, but just a little detail.

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Thought I might add some color.

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So, um, yes.

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We go to go to bed.

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We were gonna go to bed early on the Friday night 'cause we were… I don't

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know why we were going to bed early.

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We were tired.

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We might get up the next day early to go to this hike.

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I don't remember why.

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We went to bed early.

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Um, didn't make any difference because there was a, it's like a, there was a

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restaurant/party venue across the street.

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Mostly a party venue, and there was quite the to-do going on there that night.

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There was quite the, quite the sock hop.

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Um, yeah.

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These, they were, uh, like it's literally like almost right across the street

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from the, our, our, our hotel room, and you couldn't close the windows 'cause

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there was no air conditioning in any part of Tapotlán because apparently,

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I guess the, uh, electricity system doesn't work with that voltage or

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something, or that num- I don't know.

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I don't know.

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I'm not an electrician, okay?

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I am a podcaster and an editor.

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And, uh, what else do I do?

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A yoga doer.

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Play guitar.

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I do.

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Okay.

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Look at my cell phone a lot actually.

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Anyway There was this party.

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There was a party, and they were having a great time, which is great, and they were

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playing, uh, a lot of very loud music.

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Like, and, you know, there's a certain genre, and honestly this is not a judgment

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call, but there's a certain genre of Mexican music that's just like traditional

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music, but it's not like old, old.

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It, it kind of… The only equivalent I would say would be like, like

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modern country in the United States, but this isn't really…

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I don't know.

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I don't know how to describe it, but it feels like modern country kind of.

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But people know it, and they sing along to it, and this was a lot of that.

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It was almost all that being played very loud and people singing along increasingly

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drunkenly, more drunkenly to it.

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I mean, by the end of it, I think it ended at 3:00 in the morning, and believe

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you me, I was losing my fucking mind.

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I was losing… And of course, Este's just sleeping through the whole thing.

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She w- Like, I have no idea how.

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At a certain point, there were literally just people, like, they were on the

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street outside of our window just screaming at the top of their lungs.

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Just screaming.

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And, uh, great.

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I'm glad you're having fun.

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I mean, the reality is that nobody calls the police on noise complaints 'cause

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there's no such thing as a noise complaint in Mexico City or Mexico, I guess.

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People just accept the noise.

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I, I, there's a, there's a moral issue to me in the sense of like,

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do you know other people exist?

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Like, are you, are you completely oblivious to the

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existence of other people?

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But it- that's whatever.

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If I was at the party, maybe I wouldn't.

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I don't know.

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Anyway, yeah, very, very loud.

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Like, and I h- still have no idea how Este slept through it.

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She would wake up every so often 'cause I'd be tossing and turning angrily,

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and she'd be like, "Are you okay?" And I'd be like, "No, I'm not okay.

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It's… I can't sleep, blah, blah, blah.

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Losing my mind." And she'd be like, "Oh, okay," and she'd fall back,

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she'd fall back asleep like this.

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Uh, yeah, I mean, I'm happy for her, but boy, um, yeah.

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How?

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How do you, how do you do that?

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Um, she said that Mexican people are just used to noise, but, like, there were

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people screaming, just screaming outside of our window, and she's just sleeping.

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She doesn't snore that much.

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Very quiet snore

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She always asks me if she snores, and I say no.

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No, you didn't snore.

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The only time I've heard her snore was when I was trying to sleep,

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but it wasn't a loud snore at all.

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It, it was not-- It was drowned out quite a bit by the screaming in the

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street, by the, by the shrieking.

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Anyway, so I didn't fall asleep till probably four in the morning

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'cause by the time the noise ended, I was so triggered by it.

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I tried so many things.

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I put noise-canceling headphones on.

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I put a pillow over… I mean, I tried as many things as I

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could think of, but nothing.

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And then the noise finally ended, and I was like, I couldn't sleep still, and I

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think it's 'cause I was just jacked up from being so pissed off about not being

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able to sleep that I still couldn't sleep.

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I think that's ironic, right?

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Yeah, I think that's ironic

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Anyway, yeah.

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So I, I finally caught up on my sleep, but yeah, barely, I slept

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like two or three hours that night.

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And then we did the Tepozlán, the heat, the heat, um, hut thing the next day,

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which was part of the factor in like me not necessarily wanting to do it that day.

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But, you know, I was a camper, so I, I did it.

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And, uh, yeah, and then the next day we did this crazy hike up this, uh, there's

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this pyramid on the top of this mountain there, 'cause it's in the mountains.

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It's very pretty.

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You're surrounded by mountains.

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And, uh Yeah, there's a, there's an old pyramid that they built,

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or a temple or something they built on top of this mountain.

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So there's this hike you can do up to the top of the mountain.

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A lot of people do it.

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I forget the name of the pyramid or the mountain.

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I think it involves the word Tepoztlán or Tepoz or something like that.

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Yeah.

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So we did this.

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We got up quite early, 6:00 in the morning or something to do it,

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to beat the crowds, as it were.

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And, uh, yeah, it's a difficult hike.

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You're going up, I think, uh, 1,500 feet or so in this hike, and it was

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about an hour long, hour and a half.

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And it's a lot 'cause you're going up.

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You're getting some elevation.

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Um, there's steps, but there's also, like, you know, uh, some rock

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scrambles, I guess you'd call them.

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And there's not a lot of people, though, on the path, which is nice 'cause we're

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like, "Oh, it'll be all… I'm thinking it'll be all ours when we get there."

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When we get to the top, Estee's tried to go up this two times at this point.

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This is the third time she's made an attempt at this.

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The first time she was with friends, and they didn't wanna keep going

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'cause it's not an easy hike.

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And then the second time, I guess she was with her parents, and

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her dad was having knee issues at the time, so they turned around.

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So I was determined to be the one who she made it up to the

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top with, so yeah, we made it.

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Not that I wouldn't have gone all the way to the top, but it was hard.

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So we get there, and there's a there's a gate, and it doesn't

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open till 9:00, and it's, like, 8:00 in the morning at this point.

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So I didn't wanna go all the way up, you know, just to go all the

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way back down and not see the top, so we waited, and as we're waiting,

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more and more people are showing up.

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Um, I should say the name of the thing just for, like, the, you

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know, the, um, social, the, the, the search engine optimization.

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You know, I gotta…

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Maybe I'll just throw it in there somewhere, or maybe I'll look it up.

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Anyway, as we're there, we're waiting by this, you know, th- this giant

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staircase by this, um, you know, closed off fence, uh, for an hour, you know,

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which wasn't terrible, but more and more people show up, and by the time the

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thing finally opened, of course it's, like, 9:15, and there's a lot of people.

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There were about 50, 60 people there.

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Fortunately, they had food up there.

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We went up.

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It was very pretty, very pretty, you know.

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You can see… Uh, Tepoztlán's near, um, Cuernavaca.

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You've probably heard of that.

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I had heard of that city, but I had never heard of Tepoztlán.

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But Cuer- Cuernavaca, is that pro- pronounced?

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I think so.

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I think that's how it's pronounced.

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Yeah, let me look up this, uh, Tepoztlán… What is that?

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Tepoztlán mountain.

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Tepozlan Mountain, uh, El Tepozteco.

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El Tepozteco or Sierra de Tepozlan.

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Um, yeah.

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And a giant post-classical Aztec pyramid.

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I'll try to put some photos and videos up there on the Patreon page, um,

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for you to have some visual aids, those of you who are subscribing

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to the Patreon page, uh, which you should do if you're not doing it yet.

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I've asked you already.

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I know I have.

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I'm not gonna go through the whole thing again, but, you know, just a reminder.

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Just a reminder

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And then Kmos.

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What else?

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What else?

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Um

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Oh, I guess to wrap up the, uh, temazcal, the heat hut.

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I don't-- I feel like I never… Did I end that story?

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After we got out of there, like, yeah, it's a cleaning out.

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It's a cleaning out of the, uh, of the… You know, we get so much, um, I feel

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like we get some, like we get like, like mental grit stuck in our brain, you know?

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Like all the

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I don't know, the unresolved, the, the frustrations, the, the confusion,

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the, all the stuff builds up.

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And sometimes you just gotta go into a hut heated to like 200 degrees

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and just scream it out, you know?

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So I understand that

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It was both heat therapy in a way and like screaming therapy because the screaming

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was, it's the combination of the screaming and the heat that really make it a, um,

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therapeutic and a bizarre experience.

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So yeah.

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Um

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I guess I've been talking for a while, so I'm gonna wrap this one up.

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Um, thanks for listening.

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I am sorry that I haven't edited this, but, you know, maybe it's nice

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to do it like this 'cause oftentimes I overproduce it, I feel like.

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I put a lot of the music and everything.

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A lot of that time that's just to cover up bad sound, to be perfectly honest.

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Um, but then it became a thing.

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So anyway, not this episode.

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Not this one.

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This one's raw.

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Unplugged, if you will.

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Um, and, uh, and yeah, I really appreciate you listening.

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I appreciate you always listening, and I appreciate you liking,

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rating, subscribing, reviewing.

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I appreciate you telling your friends about the podcast, maybe sending them an

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episode, because as I've said many times, it's very hard to grow a podcast, and it

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takes a village, and you are the village.

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We're all the village.

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We're all One F Jef Nation.

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We are all One F Jef Army, powerful and independent

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But if somebody would like to advertise on this podcast, just,

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uh, reach out onefjefpod@gmail.com.

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Oh, the confusion, the shifting viewpoints, everything and so forth.

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Um, what else do I need to remind you of?

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Oh, if you'd like to follow the podcast on Instagram, and you should

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absolutely follow the podcast on Instagram, like, what are you doing?

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That's @onefjefpod.

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That's at sign O-N-E-F-J-E-F-P-O-D on Instagram.

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On the TikTok, uh, you can go to @onefjefpodcast, just add the

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cast at the end, all one word.

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Both of these platforms are places where I'm putting these, uh, those AI sh-

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uh, promos that I've been telling you about, and they're quite entertaining.

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So if you are curious to see some of these animated promos, they're

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like 30, 60 seconds, uh, check 'em out at the Instagram, @onefjefpod

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or @onefjefpodcast on the TikTok.

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And also on Facebook, but I'm, I've been neglecting that Facebook group,

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which is very easy to do with Facebook.

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I feel like Facebook's a very easy-- Facebook's like a little bitch.

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You slap around a little bit, ignore it.

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Yeah.

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It'll always be there.

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It'll always be there.

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Anyway, Facebook too, I think it's onefjefpod on Facebook.

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And then Substack, onefjefpod or onefjef, one or the other.

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And if you wanna hire me to edit your videos or your podcast, you can take

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a look at my work at onefjef.com.

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Throw it in there.

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Why not?

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And if you have a complaint or confusion or think you know a good

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guest for the podcast or think you'd be a good guest for the podcast,

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or if you've gotten an email from somebody pretending to be me asking

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you to be a guest on the podcast, email me at my real email address,

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which is onefjefpod@gmail.com.

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That's O-N-E-F-J-E-F-P-O-D@gmail.com.

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This will all be in the show notes.

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And there's a phone number.

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And if you'd like to leave a voicemail message and hear your

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voice over the podcast airways, as it were, or just vent, whatever.

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You can sing a song.

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You can do whatever you want.

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Be creative.

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Leave me a creative voicemail

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1-669-241-5882.

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Once again, that's 1-669-241-5882.

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Thank you.

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Trying out my real radio voice there.

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And let's find a quote to end this podcast with, and we'll try to do

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it fast so we don't have to edit.

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But I am rapidly

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going through

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Um, I don't know if I've done this one yet.

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If I have, I apologize, and if I have, you probably won't notice

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'cause, I mean, maybe you will.

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It's worth saying again.

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I'll end this episode with a quote from Carlos Castaneda

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Who said, "We either make ourselves miserable or we make ourselves strong.

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The amount of work is the same."

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I'll see you next week Very good, Jefrey

About the Podcast

Show artwork for onefjef
onefjef
Expat life in Mexico City: interviews and solo dispatches about language, culture, and what it really feels like to leave your life behind and move to CDMX.

About your host

Profile picture for Jef Taylor

Jef Taylor

Jef Taylor is an editor, filmmaker, and reluctant grown-up. He hosts onefjef, where he talks to people (and sometimes himself) about work, purpose, and the strange ways life unfolds. Before podcasting, he spent years shaping other people’s stories—now he’s telling his own.